Open Sun–Thu 7 AM–11 PM · Fri 7 AM–1 PM ✆ 845-535-1141
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Garage Door Opener Repair

Opener humming, clicking, reversing or doing nothing at all? Start with what it does when you press the button.

Opener not working? Call now and tell us what the door is doing.

✆ Call 845-535-1141

Most opener faults can be narrowed down by one question: what happens when you press the button? The answer usually points to the sensors, the remote, the power, the opener's own parts, or the door itself. Work through the table below, try the safe checks, and call 845-535-1141 if the door still will not run. We repair LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman, Linear and most other residential openers.

What the Opener Is Doing, and What It Usually Means

SymptomMost likely causeSafe to check yourself?
Door starts down, then goes back up; opener light flashesSafety sensors blocked, dirty, out of line or with a damaged wireYes. See the sensor check below.
Wall button works, remotes and keypad do notLock or vacation switch on the wall control is on, or dead remote batteriesYes.
Nothing at all: no light, no soundNo power: outlet, tripped breaker or GFCI, or an unplugged unitYes.
Motor hums, door does not moveBroken spring, a jammed door, or a failed start capacitorLook only. Do not keep pressing the button.
Motor runs, chain or belt does not moveStripped drive gear inside the openerNo. This is a repair.
Motor and chain run, door stays putThe red release was pulled, or the trolley has brokenYes, if the door is closed. See below.
Door stops partway, or will not close fullyTravel limits or force settings, or a door that is bindingNo. Wrong settings defeat the safety reverse.
Remote only works from very closeWeak battery, a damaged antenna wire, or interference from LED bulbsYes.
Opener beeps every so oftenBackup battery needs replacing (on battery-backup models)The battery is a simple swap on most models.
Door opens by itselfA stuck wall button, a shorted control wire, or a remote programmed to more than one openerNo. Have it checked.

Five Safe Checks Before You Call

  1. Sensors. Near the floor on each side of the door is a small sensor with an indicator light. Both lights should be steady. If one is off or blinking, clear anything in the way, wipe the lenses, and gently turn the sensor until the light holds steady. Look along the wire for a staple cut or a spot a pet has chewed.
  2. The lock switch. Many wall controls have a lock or vacation button that disables every remote. If the wall button works and nothing else does, press and hold the lock button for a few seconds.
  3. Power. Plug something else into the opener's outlet. Check the breaker and press the reset on any GFCI outlet in the garage, since they often share a circuit.
  4. Remote batteries. Replace them, then test from inside the garage.
  5. The red release. If the motor runs but the door does not move, the door may simply be disconnected. With the door fully closed, pull the release handle toward the door and run the opener once to re-engage it. Do not pull the release on an open door: if a spring is broken, the door can drop.

Stop there. Do not adjust the force or travel settings to make a struggling door close, and do not keep pressing the button on a motor that hums. Both hide a problem and both make the repair larger.

When the Problem Is the Door, Not the Opener

An opener is built to guide a balanced door, not to lift its weight. When a spring breaks or a roller binds, the opener is the first thing to complain: it hums, strains, stops partway or reverses. That is why we check the door and the opener together. A quick test, with the door closed and the release pulled: lift the door by hand. It should rise smoothly and stay put around waist height. If it is very heavy or slams down, the fault is in the springs, cables or tracks, and running the opener will damage it.

Opener Repairs We Carry Out

  • Safety sensors: realignment, rewiring and replacement.
  • Drive gear and sprocket kits on chain and belt units where the motor runs but nothing moves.
  • Start capacitors on motors that hum and will not turn.
  • Circuit (logic) boards after power surges or lightning, where the board is still made.
  • Trolleys, belts and chains, including tensioning.
  • Travel limit and force settings, followed by a safety-reverse test.
  • Remotes, keypads and wall controls: replacement and programming.
  • Wi-Fi and app setup on connected openers.
  • Backup batteries.

Repair or Replace the Opener?

Repair usually makes sense whenReplacement usually makes sense when
One part has failed on an otherwise sound unitThe opener has no safety sensors (units made before 1993)
Sensors, remotes or settings are the faultThe circuit board has failed and is no longer made
The unit is quiet and has been reliableThe motor itself has burned out
Parts are readily availableYou want battery backup, quiet belt drive or phone control anyway

If replacement is the better answer, the options are laid out on our garage door opener installation page, with brand-specific troubleshooting below.

Brand-Specific Troubleshooting

Each brand signals faults in its own way. See LiftMaster opener repair (flashing arrow codes), Chamberlain opener repair (common installation faults) and Genie opener repair (Safe-T-Beam lights and screw drives).

What to Tell Us When You Call

  • The brand, and the model if you can read it on the motor unit.
  • What happens when you press the wall button, and whether the opener light blinks.
  • Whether the sensor lights are steady.
  • Whether the door lifts easily by hand when disconnected (only test this with the door closed).
  • Whether a car is trapped inside.

Related Guides

Frequently Asked Questions

In most cases the safety sensors near the floor are blocked, dirty or out of line. Both sensor lights should be steady. If they are and the door still reverses, the travel or force settings are off or the door is binding, and it should be checked.
Usually the lock or vacation switch on the wall control has been turned on, which disables remotes and keypads. Dead remote batteries are the next most common cause.
Often, yes. Sensors, gears, capacitors, remotes and settings are routine repairs on a sound unit. Replacement is the better choice when the opener has no safety sensors, the motor has failed, or its circuit board is no longer available.
Stop pressing the button. The door may have a broken spring or be jammed, or the opener's start capacitor has failed. Look for a gap in the spring coil above the door, and call.
LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Genie, Craftsman, Linear and most other residential openers. Tell us the brand and model when you call so the likely parts can be brought.
We answer and send technicians Sunday to Thursday 7 AM to 11 PM, and Friday 7 AM to 1 PM (closed Saturday).

Where and When We Work

We are open Sunday to Thursday 7 AM to 11 PM, and Friday 7 AM to 1 PM (closed Saturday). In Rockland County that includes Monsey, Spring Valley, Suffern, New City, Nanuet and the surrounding communities, and we also serve Orange, Westchester, Putnam, Dutchess, Ulster and Sullivan counties. Call 845-535-1141 to confirm availability for your address.

Opener not working?

Call and tell us what the door is doing. Open Sunday to Thursday 7 AM to 11 PM, and Friday 7 AM to 1 PM (closed Saturday).

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